Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Pistoia

Undeservedly, the city of Pistoia is very often neglected by tourists. I don’t think that this small and picturesque town deserved such attitude. It has a lot well preserved monuments and could be reached in 30 minutes by train from Florence.

First time Pistoia has been mentioned in documents due to Catolina conspiring against of Roman Republic in the first century BC. Later the spirit of conspiracy became the one of the main traits of Pistoia citizens. When city has been captured by Florence here always were a lot of malcontents towards of Florentine regime. This reputation was so strong that even Dante defined the city as home of one of his negative heroes (Vanni Fucci). Another interesting fact about medieval rebellious spirit of Pistoia is that Michelangelo once called them as “enemies of heaven”.

Pistoia . Cathedral. Photo provided by the Geobia under CC BY 3.0 license

I think I have intrigued you enough to convince you to visit this town for the one or two-day's trip. The focal point of Pistoia is Piazza del Duomo which accommodates main monuments and museums of the city. Just a few minute’s walk from Piazza there are San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, Ospedale del Ceppo, San Bartolomeo and Sant’Andrea. So I recommend you after you arrival go there and start your excursion from that place.

During your stroll to the Piazza del Duomo you will cross the old city’ market on Piazza della Sala. In the few blocks from it lays Piazza San Leone which has been the center of the city during Lombard's times.

After contemplating the heritage of Lombards you will reach the superb ensemble of Piazza Duomo. Two main traits of the square - its size and layout. Really, when you arrive to the Piazza you will probably notice that it was built in untypical manner. While the main building of Piazza is its Campanila, the Duomo and Baptistery “lurk” on its corners. Expanse of the Piazza is impressing too. It’s better suits for the big cities like Florence then for a small provincial Pistoia. May be, by that, medieval citizens of Pistoia tried to challenge the Florence.

Pistoia . Details of Cathedral. Photo provided by the Mattana - Mattis under CC BY 3.0 license

Once a year Piazza holds special event called the Giostra dell’Orso. It’s a horse racing which originates from the Middle Ages. What differs this race from the traditional is that they don’t have rules. Racer can do almost everything to become the winner.

Official name of the Pistoia’ Cathedral - the Cattedrale di San Zeno. It has been built in the famous Pisan-Romanesque style (façade of the Duomo adorned by the black and white marble strips) and reminiscent Cathedrals in Luka and Pisa.

Inside of Cathedral in additional to the set of magnificent sculptures you can see the monument dedicated to the to Dante’s friend and teacher - Cino da Pistoia. It’s generally accepted that he was giving his lessens to Dante here.

Another great church of Pistoia, which has confirmed its inviolability, San Giovanni Fuorcivitas originates from the 8 century. I believe that it’s oldest church in the city. Of course it was rebuilt few times and now has a guise of the 14 century. Inside of this church you will find one of the most outstanding works of 13th century Tuscany. I’m talking about the pulpit which has been created by unknown master in 1270.

Pistoia Cathedral at night. Photo provided by the MM under CC BY 3.0 license

Pistoia Baptisiteriy. Photo provided by the MM under CC BY 3.0 license

Pistoia Detail of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas. Photo provided by the Mattana under CC BY 3.0 license