Theater of Dionysos

The southeastern slope of Acropolis in Athens boasts by its two theaters - the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Theater of Dionysos. The first theater is more preserved but the second is a more important because is the oldest theater in the world.

Theater of Dionysos is a place where were played the first spectacles.

The theater’s art originates from the special fest which was in Athens and which was dedicated to the Dionys. In the Greek pantheon of gods Dionys was responsible for the winemaking. According to the legends one day he had arrived to the Athens and attempted to treat Athenians with the wine. Athenians were unfamiliar with wine and decided that Dionys tried to poison them. In place of accept this precious gift they killed the Dionys. Of course it’s was biggest mishap from their side. Some of them had tried the wine and shared among them info that the wine is not as bad as they thought. To revoke this mistake and to pacify Dionys Athenians started celebrate special fest in honor of the god.

These fests were far away from the modern theater’s performance. It were rather chaotic celebrations with a lot of wine. Eventually Athenians started contrive some stories for celebrations with heroes and gods. But even these stories were the improvisations.

First man, who started prepare a plot for the fests was the poet Fespid who came to the Athens in the middle of the 6 century BC. Fespid also made a real revolution in the performance – he added actors to the show. Also Fespid introduced the costumes and began to write the plots not only about the Dionys but also about the others persons.

I think it would be pertinent to mention that the theater from the beginning of existence had a great impact to the Athens political life. Even more, most of the ancient performance in Athens were about politics. Thus when Persians started war against Greek cities in the Asia Minor these events were presented to the Athenians in the Theater of Dionysos. And when Athens lost its political independence the repercussions for the theater were worse. It’s began to fade.

First seats at the place of the Theater of Dionysus were built in the middle of the 6 century BC. It was the wooden benches. With the lapse of times they were changed to the marbles. First seats at the theater were for the most honorable citizens of Athens. And in the center of the first raw was the throne of the main priest of the Dionys temple.

In the first and the third century the Theater of Dionysus has been rebuilt by the Romans (the current frieze on the scene it’s their work).

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Odeon of Herodes Atticus - is a Roman theater located at the southern slope of Acropolis of Athens. But I think before to write about the Odeon it would be pertinent to say a few words about the Herodes and his family.

Herodes Atticus was a Greek orator, philosopher and the strong upholder of the revival of the classical Greek culture which at the beginning of the second century began to fade.

He was born in the Marathon (small city near the Athens where Greeks won one of the most prominent of their battles) in the very rich family. His grandfather was a richest man in the Greece. Emperor Domitian confiscated his state but he managed to hide part of it and in the future his son (Herodes’s father) reestablished the family’s fortune by using “hidden treasure”.

Also it’s worth mentioning that Herodes asserted that his family descended from the Theseus (I suppose you know this hero from the legend about the Minotaur).

In 125 Emperor Hadrian assigned the Herodes to the prefect position in the Asia Minor. It was very important post in the Roman Empire and I don’t have any doubts that Herodes enhanced his states.

When he came back into Athens he took important post in the city. Hadrian and Herodes were the friends. In 127 when emperor visited the Athens he lived in the Herodes home.

In 140 Herodes went to the Rome and became the Marcus Aurelius teacher.

Herodes Atticus built the Odeon in 161 in the honor of his wife who died in a few years earlier.

The building combined the features of the Greek and Roman theaters: its outline reminds the theaters of the Greece but adorned by the sculptures façade immanent to the Roman theaters.

Odeon could host up to 5000 spectators. For the ancient time it’s very impressive number. As we know only the citizens could visit the theaters then and only the men could get the citizenship.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was used until the gerul’s attack to the Athens in the 267. In the middle ages the theater was used as part of the Acropolis fortifications and was refurbished in the 1848-1858.

Today the Odeon has good conditions. Almost all its parts (except the statues) were carefully restored and now Odeon even hosts the concerts of the jazz and the classical music. In the ordinary days the Odeon is closed. To get in you need to buy the ticket to the concert.

Acropolis of Athens

When we hear the words “Acropolis of Athens” we usually think about of famous masterpieces like Parthenon or Erechtheion. But initially Acropolis had a different purpose, it’s was a fortress, the most fortified place of the city. (Acropolis translated from the Greek as fortress)

This fortress was built by the Nature and even did not need the walls. The others sides are very steep slopes and absolutely impregnable. Top of the crag is a plain with springs and olive trees which could provide the water and food for its defenders.

So, I don't wonder why the ancient Greeks chose this place for their settlement. On the ruins of the Acropolis you can read the history of the Greece from the legendary times of Cecrops to the times of the Independence War.

The capital of the Greece originates from the dark times of the legends. In the middle of 2000 BC (according to the Herodotus) Cecrops, who was the son of the Hera, came to the Attika. He built the palace at the top of Acropolis, fortress and founded the city which was named the Cecropiya.

In the same time occurred the legendary dispute between Athena and Poseidon for the pledge to be the patron of the city. The contest was very simple. They had to give some gift to the city. Those whose gift reckoned as more valuable would be declared the winner.

Athena gave the olive tree, Poseidon – the source of water. Both gifts were valuable but Athenians preferred the olives. Poseidon was angered and sent the big storm to the city and only Zeus calmed him.

The city was renamed into Athens and Athena became the city’s patron. As for Poseidon, Athenians built a big temple dedicated to him and thus pacified him.

First fortifications on the Acropolis of Athens were built in the 1100 BC. It’s was a big and massive walls which now traceable from the side of the Agora. Greeks of so-called classical period thought that these walls were built by the heroes and giants.

First who began to turn Acropolis into the sacral place was despot Pisistratus who built instead of Cecrops palace temple dedicated to the Athena. There is interesting fact about this building. Greeks so honored Athena so decided to free all slaves which were participated in the building.

This temple was destroyed in the 479 BC when Athens were occupied by the Persians. But don’t think that Acropolis was stormed. Athenians decided do not protect the city. They left the Athens with all their properties and destroyed their homes. They decided to wage marine war and after all they won.

After the victory Athenians rebuilt the Acropolis and created the hill as we know it today. Of course, during the Middle Ages a lot of additional buildings were built but in the 19 century they were demolished.

This wide construction was in the Pericles times and under the Phidias supervision.

But don’t think that Acropolis lost its initial purpose. No, it’s always served for Athenians as the most fortified place in the city.

For example, in the 88-86 BC Athenians successfully reflected Romans army attacks led by the Sulla. Only the lack of the provision and water forced Athenians troops to surrender.

Sulla was the first man who sacked Acropolis. He brought a lot of statues from Athens to Rome and used them during his triumph. But generally Romans treated Acropolis temples well. Especially their Emperor Hadrian who was fascinated by the Athens.

Acropolis in Athens was in good conditions until the 5th century. It began to demolish in the 426 when the Pagan’s temples of Acropolis were converted into the Christian churches. For example, Parthenon was converted into the St. Sophia Church and when its façade was rebuilt according to the Christian traditions a lot of friezes were destroyed.

When Athens was occupied by the Turks the buildings of Acropolis were adjusted to their needs. For example, they made from the Parthenon gun-powder depot and this caused a most critical damage for the building in 1640 when Venetians stormed the Acropolis hill.

Last time as fortress Acropolis in Athens has been used during the Greek War for Independence. A small detachment of the Greek rebels occupied the hill and reflected the Turkish attacks from there. It was the time when artillery has been already invented so it’s not difficult to image that Acropolis had a lot of tolls.

As I already told when Greece gained its independence all buildings which is not belonged to the classical times were destroyed. So now Acropolis has a view of the 5th century BC when ancient Athens was at the peak of its power.

Also let me give you a small advice about the visit of the Acropolis. Most sightseers restrict their visit only by the Acropolis. Don’t be lazy and go after the Acropolis to the neighboring hills (from the sea side). It was the place where the ancient Athens was. And temples of Acropolis were built in such way to have a maximum effect when you look at them from these hills. All most spectacular pictures of Acropolis of Athens (including my) were shoot from these places.

Roman Pantheon

Roman Pantheon originates from 27 B.C. Marcus Agrippa who was the son in law of Augustus built it to commemorate the victory in the Battle of Actium.

Agrippa built the Pantheon for own money and intended to dedicate the temple to the Augustus. But Augustus was the modest person. He rejected Agrippa proposition and temple was dedicated to the all gods of ancient Rome. This is the meaning of the word “Pantheon”. It has the Greek roots and from Greek could be translated as “dedicated to all the gods”.

Roman Pantheon. Photo provided by the Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa under CC BY 2.0 license

To be more exact Pantheon in Rome was dedicated to the seven main gods of Rome whose statues were established inside of the temple.

First Pantheon not stood a long time. A hundred years later it was demolished by the lightning strike. In 118 Emperor Hadrian (who reigned in Rome) decided to refurbish Pantheon and assigned this work to his architect Apollodorus of Damascus. From the previous temple Apollodorus left only columns in front of the building. He built a big hall and topped it with a big golden dome which in the Middle Ages seemed unrepeatable for the medieval people.

We could say that the current view of the Pantheon was given to the building thanks to the Hadrian and Apollodorus.

Roman Pantheon - View from the right side. Photo provided by the Clayton Tang under CC BY 3.0 license

Hadrian and Apollodorus paid their respect to the first creator of the Roman Pantheon. They left the name of Agrippa at the building façade. That is why during a long period of the time people thought that the current Pantheon has been built by the Agrippa.

Ancient temples usually were not used for worship. Of course, the temple was the “house of the god” but people did their services outside of the temples. In the temples were stored the spoils, gifts and important documents. Usually ordinary people were not allowed to pass inside of the temple.

Roman Pantheon had a different purpose. By that building Hadrian intended to show to the world the greatness and the inviolability of the Roman Empire. And we need to admit that he did it successfully.

Roman Pantheon - Portico. Photo provided by the Jensens under CC BY 3.0 license

Pantheon in Rome does not have luxuriant interior but its dome never was surpassed by the best world architectures. The building does not have windows. But its interior is not gloomy and always has enough light. It’s possible thanks to the so-called “heavenly window” - a big hole in center of the dome. But this hole made so deliberately and cunningly that in the rainy days the rain never falls inside.

I think it’s worth mentioning the legend about the Parthenon rubbish which claims that the dome of the Roman Parthenon was built from the construction garbage. Also, according to the legend, Hadrian ordered to hide inside the dome his gold.

In the ancient time Parthenon’s dome glittered with its golden surface. In front of the main entrance was the big square with Triumph Arch in the center. Before to get into the temple every man passed through the Arch and paid in such way his respect to the gods.

Roman Pantheon - Interior. Photo provided by the Veronidae under CC BY 3.0 license

Roman Pantheon - is an only one untouched building of antiquity. Last Roman Emperor Theodicy First ordered to close the temple in the end of the 4th century. And for me it’s a little enigma how Pantheon was saved in those times.

After a two centuries Pantheon was converted into the Christian church and dedicated to the Our Lady. It saved the temple from the future destruction.

Pantheon always pulled the scrutiny from the scientists and artists. Michelangelo said that the Pantheon – is an angel’s creation and Rafael bequeathed to bury his inside.

Btw, I heard the version that in the 15 century Pantheon was used as the fortress and it was Raphael who insisted to turn the building into the church again. I can’t say that it’s true but I don’t have any doubts that Raphael played a big role in the history of the Pantheon.

Roman Pantheon - Dome. Photo provided by the Robertino65 under CC BY 3.0 license

The Raphael’s testament was completed and starting from the 1520 Roman Pantheon began to serve as the shrine for prominent people of Rome. Later this tradition was spread to other countries and now word Pantheon has additional meaning. It means – “the burial place for famous people”.

In the 17 century all gold was taken out from the Dome to adorn the St. Pater Basilica in Rome. This work was assigned to the Bernini and he felt guilty for it. To reimburse something to the building he built two towers in front of the Pantheon. I don’t know exactly why but those towers were named as “donkey’s towers” among the Romans. In the 1641 one of them was demolished.

Roman Pantheon at night. Photo provided by the Ramesh under CC BY 3.0 license

Today Roman Pantheon fronted to the small Column Square which gained its name thanks to the Egyptian obelisk which was transferred here from the former Field of Mars.

When you will visit the Pantheon don't forget that it’s a church so you should be dressed respectively and keep silence.

Gothic Quarter Barcelona

Gothic Quarter – is an oldest part of the Barcelona. It originates from the Roman settlement and located between popular La Rambla and La Ribera. Someone claims that the Gothic Quarter has more ancient roots because according to one theory the city was founded by the Phoenician general Hannibal Barca.

Place de Sant Jaume. Photo provided by the Serge Melki under CC BY 2.0 license

In any way you can see the most ancient buildings of Barcelona here. Just behind the Royal Palace there are remains of the Roman walls dated by the 3 century. At Carrer de Paradis, 10 you can see the ruins of temple of Augustus and a lot of other ruins a spotted along the Gothic Quarter.

Of course, this area is famous by its Gothic heritage. After all it’s called – “Gothic Quarter”.

My favorite place at Gothic Quarter

You can start your excursion from the Placa Nova and the Portal del Bisde which served in the 1 century as the city gate. Here you can find a lot of interesting buildings like Palau Episcopal (The Bishop's Palace) and Casa Arcadia (The house of Archdeacon).

The last building is famous for its courtyard and don’t miss the mailbox which is decorated by the small sculpture of tortilla.

If you have some luck you will see the national Catalonian dance sardana which is performed at the Pla de la Seu in front of the Barcelona Cathedral (not to be confused with Sagrada Familia). To see it you need be here at Sunday. Also if you plan to visit flea market of Barcelona you should be here at Thursday.

Gothic mailbox

Next your goal – is a Placa de Rei where you can find the Palau del Llocient – nice example of the Catalonian Gothic. It’s former residence of the vice-king of the Catalonia. But before the Spain was united it was the Royal Palace of the Aragon Kings.

Inside of this building don’t miss famous Salo de Tunell hall where Isabella and Ferdinand greeted the Columbus after his epic voyage. Also in this complex you can visit Historical Museum of the Barcelona.

At the Placa St Jaume square, the former Roman Forum in Barcelona, now you can see the City Hall (Casa de la Ciutat) and the Palau de la Generalited which is now the residence of the Catalonian Government. Both building are open for visitors. Of course you should check the open hours.

The Palau de la Generalitat. Photo provided by the Generalitat de Catalunya under CC BY 3.0 license

Between this square and Rambla there is small busy Placa Sant Josep Oriot square which is occupied by the cafes. There you can have a rest and drink a cup of coffee.

Gothic Quarter Barcelona sights

Barcelona Cathedral. This Cathedral has been built at the Roman Temple place. The construction started in 1298 and was finished in the beginning of the 20 century. Of course, cathedral was refurbished few times.

Place de Sant Juame Square. As I already mentioned it’s a political center of the Barcelona.

Place del Rei. Photo provided by the JosepBC under CC BY 3.0 license

Picasso Museum. Picasso spent his childhood in Barcelona. Here he started to get first lessons of the painting so it’s no wonder that Barcelona has Picasso Museum which occupied five Gothic buildings.

Eglesia de Santa Maria del Mar Church. This could be counted as most graceful church in Barcelona. Its construction has been started in 1384 and finished only after 55 years. Very small terms for such buildings. This church also is famous for its acoustics, so here often conducted the concerts including the jazz music.

Roman heritage in Barcelona. Photo provided by the Angela Llop under CC BY 3.0 license

This list is not pretended to be full. I just want to entice you to visit Gothic Quarter in Barcelona and I’m sure that you will form your own.

Aachen Cathedral

Aachen is a small historical city located on the border between Germany, Netherlands and Belgium.

The city's fate is tightly bounded with the name of the Carl the Great who known as the most prominent monarch in the Middle Ages. Carl became the king of the Franks in 768. By the 805 he joined under his skipper all land of the former Western Roman Empire and was declared as Emperor in the Rome.

View of Aachen Cathedral

Thereafter he had made Aachen as his place of permanent residence and started to build his palace and Cathedral. I will write about the Palace of the Carl the Great in another article. Here I want to tell you about famous Aachen Cathedral.

Of course, I think it’s worth mentioning that Palace and Cathedral, during time of Carl the Great, were the one complex.

Model near the entrance

Chronicle says that the architect of the building was Otto from Menz. But common supervising of the building was conducted by the Eichard who was the personal adviser of Carl the Great and was familiar with ancient arts.

Aachen Cathedral has been built following the forms of the churches in Ravenna. Despite the fact that Cathedral gone through the frequent rebuildings it saved its initial plan.

Ceiling of the Aachen Cathedral was adorned by mosaics which were performed by the masters from the Byzantine Empire. Also let me say that Carl ordered to move into the Cathedral the columns from the destroyed palace of King Theodoric in Ravenna.

Main church of Cathedral is a two-story building. Upper floor of Cathedral was used only by Carl and his family members. In the now days you also can visit only the first floor of the Aachen Cathedral. Unfortunately the Carl’s floor is closed for visitors.

In times of the Carl the Great in Aachen Cathedral was situated his throne and also there were stored the symbols of his power.

After his death Carl was buried in the Cathedral and it became very important place for the German nation. All German Emperors from 936 to 1531 were crowned here.

No wonder that Emperors bestowed to the Cathedral a lot of gifts (today you can see them at the treasury of the Aachen Cathedral).

During the centuries Cathedral was seriously enlarged. Tower has been added to the western part of the Cathedral and its plain roof was changed to the wide dome. In the 14th century Gothic choir has been added to the main church and later a lot of extra buildings were built around the Cathedral. Thus was formed the present view of Aachen Cathedral.

Interior of Aachen Cathedral

Interior of Aachen Cathedral reminds the basilica of San-Vitale in Ravenna. Dome and walls are covered by golden mosaics. A big chandelier has been added to the roof in 1180. Choir is decorated by the Golden pulpit which was bestowed to Cathedral by Emperor Henry Third.

Inside the Cathedral you can see the throne of Carl the Great but main relic of Cathedral - is a monstrance of Our Lady.

Monstrance of Our Lady and mosaics in Aachen

Cathedral located at the city’s historical center very close to the other buildings. It can cause some difficulties to percept entire complex but near the main entrance there is his model which could help you with this issue.

Dome of Aachen Cathedral

Carcassonne

There is no such place on the Earth as Carcassonne where you can learn the history of fortifications. The city located on southern France at the Languedoc department on the crossroad which links Mediterranean Sea with Atlantic Ocean and Spain with France.

View of the city

First who recognized the strategic location of Carcassonne were Romans. The Roman province of Narbonne was founded at 118 BC. Between 40 and 33 BC they founded Carcassonne and named the city as Julia Carsaco (I’m not sure, but seems that they named the city on behalf of Julius Caesar).

Double walls of the Carcassonne

Then in Carcassonne was situated the residence of roman official who ruled the region.

Of course, Romans at once fortified the city but then was a peaceful time for them. They dominated over the Europe and no one dared to start the war with them. Therefore fortifications in Carcassonne served rather as a decoration of the city.

In 3 BC, with the start of roman power decline, situation changed. Different tribes crossed the borders of Roman Empire, attacked and sacked the cities, villages and villas. Roman legions were unable to save vast territory of Empire and people felt the smell of hazard in their homes. To protect themselves they built fortifications around their cities.

Central entrance to the city

Then around of Carcassonne was built the circle of defensive walls with towers.

The Roman fortifications of Carcassonne consisted from the walls with the classical roman towers and four gates.

In 406 Western Roman Empire fell. Carcassonne has been occupied by the Visigoths. During a long time historians thought that fortifications around the city were built by the Visigoths. But it’s not true. In the 5 century Visigoths were the nomads and didn’t have any building experience. They simple adjusted the buildings for their needs and called the local masters to support fortifications in the good conditions.

Shopping street in the Carcassonne

The Kingdom of Visigoths fell in the beginning of the 8 century under the blows of the Saracen swords. They occupied Carcassonne and held the city for the few next centuries.

Btw, there is a legend about the name of “Carcassonne” related with the Saracens. According this legend Carcassonne one day was besieged by the troops of the Charles the Great. The city’s defenders suffered from the starvation and were ready to surrender. But among them was a woman with name “Carcass” who proposed to cast from the city’s wall the pork.

Bridge to the Duke's castle

Once they did it Charles decided that they have enough of supplies to withstand the siege and since he suffered from the lack of the provision as well he retreated from the city.

Carcassonne – Duke’s residence

In the middle of the 12 century Carcassonne became the Duke’s residence. The castle has been rebuilt in 1130-1150 years, and counted as the most advanced and modern fortifications for those times.

The architect saved the Romans plans of the citadel but applied modern knowledge about the art of war. Western part of the Carcassonne was left without changes.

The castle was encircled by the walls with jags and ditch with the water. Most important towers of the Carcassonne are – Sent Pol which protects the southern part of the city, two towers near the eastern gate, and two towers which protect the northern part of the city.

Gate to the Duke's castle

The main entrance to the city is protected by the two joined towers with a lot of loopholes. Also entrance is protected by the grill and the massive door. After the door there is another grill. To avoid the betrayal between the guards the grills are managed separately.

Inside of the Duke's castle

The loopholes of Carcassonne are planned thus to give to archers the possibility to run fire on all area near gates and walls. Also the defenders of the towers of Carcassonne in the case of breaking the walls could fight independently.

View to the Cathedral

French Carcassonne

Carcassonne was not under the French rule at the beginning. It a little bit complicated. French kings had some level of protectionism under the Languedoc but the local dukes always had some level of independence.

I don’t want to describe here how the Languedoc became the part of
French kingdom. You can read about for example at the Wikipedia. I only want to mention that Carcassonne was joined to the French during the reign of Philipp the Beautiful. Since Carcassonne served as main military base for the French on the south. French kings continued to fortify the citadel and the city counted as unapproachable. I will give you a little example about the strength of Carcassonne.

During the war between France and England when “Black Prince” with his army approached the city he was so impressed by it so he decided not to storm Carcassonne and retreated from the city’s walls.

Courtyard of the castle

Carcassonne began to loose its importance as the military citadel with invention of the artillery. In the Renaissance times it was used only as military depot. By then people left the citadel and settled nearby, in the “modern” part of the city. The castle even lay in ruins for some period. And local authorities even had the plans to demolish them. But thanks to the local enthusiasts they changed their plans.

In 1997 the medieval ensemble of the Carcassonne was included into UNESCO list.

View from the walls

Carcassone's Tower

Carcassonne Cathedral

It’s worth mentioning Carcassonne Cathedral which originates from the time of Louis 11. It’s good example of the Gothic architecture. Cathedral located in the center of the city and could be viewed from the Duke’s castle. For me the most impressing thing in the Cathedral was its stained-windows.

Roman's tower

Duke’s Castle

Another monumental sight in Carcassonne – it’s Duke’s castle which was built in 1130. Today inside the castle situated a museum so you need to buy a ticket to enter inside.

Duke’s castle could be called as citadel inside of another citadel. Even if the city would be captured by the enemy the garrison of castle could withstand the siege for some time. After the visiting the rooms of the museum you can walk on walls of the castle and make nice photos of the Carcassonne.

Inside the museum

Travel tips

If you go to the restaurant in the city be careful. The waiters in the local restaurants sometime try to cheat their clients. Most common trick – is to “forget” to bring one of the dishes.

Carcassonne street

Carcassone Cathedral

Stained windows inside

Carcassonne walls

Old cemetery

Roundabout near the entrance

Walls again