Florence Baptistery

Probably, Florence Baptistery (Baptistery of Saint John) is oldest building in the Florence. During a long time the citizens of Florence had believed that this building has been built in the 1 century BC and was a Temple of Mars before it was converted into the Christian Church.

It is generally accepted that Florence Baptistery has been built over the ancient structure, probably the big roman house of the first century. There is also a big probability that ancient marble columns of Baptistery were brought here from the Florence’s Capitol.

First time Florence Baptistery appeared in the documents in the 897. It was mentioned as the city’s Cathedral. Many of its decorations are dated between 1059 and 1128, when it has been reconstructed and refurbished. The decoration of Florence Baptistery was ordered and paid by the Merchant Guild (Arta di Calimala) which in medieval Florence was responsible for keeping it in the good conditions.

Also it’s worth mentioning that in Baptistery (not the Florence’s Cathedral) are kept most valuable examples of medieval art in Florence, including magnificent murals.

Mosaics in Florence Baptistery. Photo provided by the Geobia under CC BY 3.0 license.

One of the most attractive things of the Baptistery - it’s its doors. First appeared south doors which were made by designs of Antonio Pisano. Before he has been hired to this job, Antonio finished the similar work in the Pisa and deeply impressed the city’s authorities by it. So they have decided to give this job to him.

Only for a three months Antonio modeled the wax sculptures for the doors, casting of which was entrusted to the Venetian master Leonardo d’Avanzo; in those times Venetians were known in Europe as not surpassed masters of casting. The casting lasted for a six years and final work has been installed in 1336.

South doors of Florence Baptistery. Photo provided by the sailko under CC BY 3.0 license.

By the creation of the north doors the city’s authorities hoped to avert the epidemic of “Black Death” from Florence. This time the candidate for this job was not obvious and the city’s authorities launched a tender for this job. Among others works they opted the works of two young artists - Lorenzo Ghiberti and Filippo Brunelleschi and proposed them coherent work. But Brunelleschi had relinquished the proposal; he went to Rome instead and studied the art of architecture.

Next twenty years of his life Ghiberti devoted for the work under the north doors. As result, artistic masterpiece appeared which consisted from 28 panels with reliefs.

North Doors of the Florence Baptistry. Photo provided by the sailko under CC BY 3.0 license.

Arta di Calimala was very impressed by the work of Ghiberti. Soon after he finished the north doors they ordered him to design and develop east doors. And Ghiberti created one of the best masterpieces of the Renaissance. Later Michelangelo said that these doors are “Gates of Paradise”.

It’s worth mentioning that original Ghiberti’s doors are kept in the Museum of Cathedral. In the 20 century they have been replaced by the copy. It’s not propogated information so you have a great chance to see it alone.

Gates of Paradise of the Florence Baptistry. Photo provided by the sailko under CC BY 3.0 license.

Santa Maria del Fiore

Santa Maria del Fiore not always was a city’s cathedral. Once upon a time this role has been incumbent to the Baptistery and San Lorenzo while in place of Santa Maria del Fiore has been small Santa Reparto church which was built in 7 century.

The idea of building new Cathedral in Florence began to discussed at the end of the 13th century when the city’s authorities decided to highlight the growing power of the Florence. It’s worth mentioning that by that time the Florence’s rivals, including Pisa and Siena, already had Cathedrals and for Florence’s Council it was very important to surpass them.

City’s Council made decision that Santa Reparto “is too small and is too rough” for such great city as Florence. In 1294 council unfolded edict to build new cathedral which would have delighted by its richness and greatness. In the same year Arnolfo di Cambio got the order to develop the plans of new Cathedral.

Cathedral’s façade is comparatively new creation. In 1587 original façade designed by Arnolfo di Cambio has been dismantled but new façade appeared only 300 years after. It’s work of Emilio de Fabris.

As one of the traits of Cathedral, Arnolfo di Cambio contrived a big dome but he didn’t explain how to build it. Thus this task has been postponed for the further generations.

First stone of Cathedral has been laid in September of 1296; to emphasize connection between The Virgin Mary and Florence it got the name - Santa Maria del Fiore.

After the death of Arnolfo di Cambio in 1302, the work has lingered but it got new incentive when to the unfinished Cathedral was moved the body of St. Zinoviev. Then the work under Cathedral has been entrusted to the Giotto who devoted most of his energy to build Campanile.

After the Giotto, on the Cathedral’s construction worked a few architects who worked in the conditions of political and financial unrest in Florence. Nave of the Cathedral has been finished in 1378, arch – in 1380, the Dome of the Cathedral – it’s different story which I’m going to tell in the special article.

Requirements of the Florence’s Council to build spacious building have been taken by the Cathedral builders with great enthusiasm. They built the fourth largest Cathedral in world which can accommodate 30 000 visitors.

Interior of Florence's Cathedral. Photo provided by the Luca Aless under CC BY 3.0 license.

In the interior of the Santa Maria del Fiore there are few interesting murals. One of them dedicated to the great son of Florence – Dante. This mural located on the north nave of the Cathedral. It was created by Domenico di Michelini in 1465. Note that Dante has been depicted here out of the city walls. It’s a clue that he has been ousted from the Florence by his political rivals.

Florence’s Cathedral has more stained windows than any other Cathedral in Italy.

Judgement by Vasari. He painted Dome of Cathedral in 1579. Photo provided by the Arnaud 25 under CC BY 3.0 license.

Palazzo Vecchio

Palazzo Vecchio dominates over the Piazza della Signoria in Florence. Its construction began in 1299 probably by designs of Arnolfo di Cambio. Here had gathered the city’s Council and in 1540 Palazzo Vecchio become the residence of Duke Cosimo First.

After the 9 years Cosimo moved his residence into Palazzo Pitti and then the building gained its current name (word “vecchio” means “old”).

Today Palazzo Vecchio again hosts the city’s Council but most of its space is open for public. Entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio lies through the internal yard which has been built in 1453 by designs Michelozzo and later adorned by Giorgio Vasari on the occasion of marriage between Francesco de 'Medici and Johanna of Austria.

Internal yard of Palazzo Vecchio. Photo provided by the TK Vanacoro under CC BY 3.0 license. Fountain in the center is a work of Andrea del Verrocchio who was a teacher of Leonardo da Vinci. It was moved here from Medici's villa in Caredgi

Palazzo Vecchio - grand hall. Photo provided by the Eusebius under CC BY 3.0 license. Salone dei Cinquecento has been developed to conduct the meetings of city’s Council. The walls of hall were adorned by Vasari’s murals which are devoted to the glory of Florence.

Giorgio Vasari - Defeat of Radagasio below Fiesole

Palazzo vecchio, michelangelo, genio della vittoria. Photo provided by the sailko under CC BY 3.0 license. You can find this Michelangelo’s work in front of to entrance to the grand hall. Nephew of Michelangelo gifted this statue to Cosimo, who ordered Vasari install it in grand hall to commemorate Florence’s victory over Siena

Studiolo di francesco I. Photo provided by the sailko under CC BY 3.0 license. Srudio di Franseco is a former private room of Cosimo’s son. It was adorned by the common effort of 30 artists

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Signoria was a center of political life in medieval Florence. Here located the Palazzo Vecchio where a few centuries earlier gathered the city’s authorities.

Initially Piazza della Signoria was located near the ancient center of Roman Florence. Next to it were the Roman Theater and city’s therms and at the south side Piazza della Signoria bordered with so-called fullonica, place where Romans colored textiles.

All Roman buildings, including the San-Romalo church, disappeared with time without any vestiges. They were demolished or dismantled to support other buildings.

The history of emerging of square related with legend. They say that the lands of Piazza della Signoria belonged to the Uberti family which didn’t support any movement in medieval Florence (city was divided to the two parties: Guelphs and Ghibellines). When family lost its influence in the city the lands were confiscated and all buildings were destroyed. With time all land has been paved to prevent Uberti restore their buildings.

Its current shape Piazza della Signoria took as result of sporadic and chaotic development. Any planning and laying out of the square began only in 1307 when city’s authorities gave part of the land to build Palazzo Vecchio. Curiously enough that written sources of 14th century mentioned Piazza della Signoria as a spot of construction rubbish.

Next time Piazza della Signoria has been remodeled after 1560 when Duke Cosimo First rebuilt Uffizi Gallery and in 1871 when Loggia dei Pisani has been destroyed.

First of all Piazza della Signoria attracts attention by sculptures and Loggia della Signoria. Each sculpture of Piazza emerged on the square to commemorate certain historical event in the life of Florence. If you reach the Piazza from the side of Duomo first statue you will face will be the statue of Duke Cosimo the First by Giambologna. This statue is reminiscent the statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in Rome and thus connects the Florence with the glory of ancient Empire.

Next time Cosimo appeared on the Piazza in the image of Neptune in fountain “Fontana del Nettuno”. This work of Bartolomeo Ammanati was ridiculed by Michelangelo who said that Ammanati just spoiled marble. Residents of the city assert that this statue prowls over the city in the full moon nights. And next to it there is a stone with inscription that here was burned Savonarola in 1498.

fountain “Fontana del Nettuno”

Most of sculptures of the square are copies. Their originals are kept now in museums of Florence. But here, at the Piazza della Signoria you can see them all and envision how place looked a few centuries ago. Loggia dei Pisani has been built in the 1376 by designs of Jacopo di Cione to protect the city’s authorities from the bad weather during the public events. Later the building was used for reception of envoys and for accommodation of mercenaries.

Today the Loggia is a small museum of sculpture under the open sky. Most famous exhibit of the museum is a “Perseus” of Benvennuto Cellini who worked on it during ten years.

copy of David

Loggia dei Pisani

“Perseus” of Benvennuto Cellini

Florence

Every new born from old. The roots of the new arts of Europe of the 15th century which known as the Renaissance arts lie in the era of flowering of Gothic’s arts in Florence, the capital of Toscana province. From the Latin Florence translated as “blooming”. The city was founded in the 1 century BC by the Roman general Julius Caesar who gave this land to his soldiers. Of course it was not founded over the empty space. Before Romans appeared, here already was Etruscans city.

It’s hard to call Florence of the Roman times as significant city. Florence had conceded in development to its neighbors. The lucky times for the city began after the fall of Rome when the roads of Italy were overflowed by the robbers and traders investigated new paths.

View of Florence

One of the new developed trade roads began to flow through Florence and this caused huge development of the city. Despite the fact of the civil war between citizens of Florence it managed to withhold its positions in south Europe as center of trade and production.

Highest point in its development, Florence had reached thanks to the famous Medici family, members of which were the Kings and even kept the Pope’s throne in Rome. Medici had contributed a lot to the arts in Florence. They had invited many prominent artists from all over the Italy and many of them had worked in Florence for a long period. That is why today we eager to the Florence – to see the birthplace of Renaissance and results of work of many famous artists of 15-17 centuries.

Florence - Duomo Square

Florence lies in the valley which is surrounded by high hills. River Arno separates city on two parts. The main part of the city - is north but I recommend start your excursion from the south of Florence, from the place called Piazzale Michelangelo. This place located at the top of the hill and has a wonderful view to the main sights of the Florence. It’s worth mentioning that one of the greatest sons of the Florence – Dante – had loved this place. He came here in evening and contemplated the city beneath.

Over the sea of the city’s roofs soar main towers of the Florence - tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, steeple of the Santa Maria Novella church, bell of the Santa Croce church. But reigns in the panoramic view of the Florence – dome of the Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore.

Florence - Duomo Square

The main part of the Cathedral has been built at the end of the 13 century by Arnolfo di Cambio. The dome of the Church has been erected in 1418-1436 by Brunelleschi. Next to dome there is a bell tower which was built in 1334-1360 by Giotto.

Facade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore exits to the Duomo Square. In front of Cathedral there is another treasure of Florence – city’s Baptistery. According to the ledgens Baptistery of Florence is an ancient temple of Mars which has been converted into the Christian church.

Interior of Baptistery adorned by the Byzantine murals of 13 century. But may be most of us eager to visit Baptistery to see its doors which were developed in the 15 century by the Lorenzo Ghiberti. Michelangelo called these doors as “doors to the heaven”.

Florence - Piazza della Signoria

There is always a big huddle before doors. But in nowadays you can see the copy of the Ghiberti’s work in Baptistery. The original doors are kept in Museum of Duomo which is located beyond of the Cathedral. And I was surprised when I found that the Museum of Duomo is half empty.

Once upon a time Florence had six bridges which connected the banks of Arno River. But today is only one survived – the famous Ponte Vecchio, oldest bridge of Florence, which originates from the Roman times.

Originally it was made from wood but after one of the floods which hit the bridge it was rebuilt from stone. Built up from the each side by shops Ponte Vecchio looks exactly like in the Middle Ages. And like a few centuries ago, their owners sell local jewelry.

Florence - The Uffizi Gallery

In Florence there are a lot of churches. If mention them all, I should write a book, not a small article. But I want mention a Santa Croce which is the Pantheon of the Florence. This church has been built between 13 and 14 centuries. Its interior adorned by the murals of many famous artists of Florence among which you can find a work of Giotto. And along of the church’s walls there are shrines of most prominent people of Florence. For example, here buried the Michelangelo and Galileo.

To recap this small article I want to mention about the Piazza della Signoria which was the center of political life in Florence. In the Middle Ages the government of Florence adorned this place by the sculptures to commemorate important events in the life of the Florence. For example, bronze statue of “Judith” (work of Donattelo) has been established here to commemorate eviction of the Medici from the Florence. Many of sculptures now are kept in the Florence’s museums (for example, David Michelangelo) but Piazza della Signoria continues to be one of the most beautiful places in Italy.

Florence - houses

Florence - Santa Croce

Aachen

Aachen is a historical town, a center of science and learning, and a city whose history could be treated as a history of Europe. Even more, I can say without any exaggeration that Aachen is a first capital of the European Union.

City was founded by the Romans who were attracted here by the mineral springs of the area. But the greatest pages of the history of the Apache were in the 8 century when the Charlemagne chose it as his capital.

It was the very big city, may be only Constantinople could surpass the Aachen. Charlemagne made not only the seat of his imperial administration in the city but also made from the Aachen the most influential center of culture in Europe. He gathered most prominent thinkers and scholars from all over Europe.

Aachen. Cathedral

All monarchs tried to compete one with another in attempt to send valuable gifts to the city. Delegations from all corners of the known world visited the city and together with Rome and Constantinople Aachen consisted the triangle of power.

After the death of the Charlemagne Aachen had not lost its importance. The city become the place of coronation of the Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire and was the important trade center.

Most prominent monument of the city – is Cathedral of Aachen. It was built in 800 and was the private church of the Charlemagne and his family. In the Middle Ages Cathedral was connected with the Palace of Emperor but today they parted by the small square.

Aachen. Modern and antiquity

Cathedral had not saved its guise of the 8 century. During the centuries of its existence it was remodeled and rebuilt few times. When you visit the Aachen don’t miss the Treasure of Aachen Cathedral. There you can see a lot of interesting artifacts many of which were transferred from Rome by Charlemagne to enhance the prestige of the city.

Another prominent building of Aachen is a Town Hall. Initially it was the palace of Charlemagne then it was the place where the Emperors gave their oath during the coronation.

Houses near the center

As the Cathedral Town Hall has been rebuilt a few times so it spans a few styles of architecture. The largest surviving remnant of the Charlemagne’s palace is the so-called “Granus Tower”.

Following the deterioration and demolition in the 13th century, the city’s administration reconciled with Emperor Ludwig of Bavaria construction of new building with dual purpose. It was the seat of Aachen administration and the place of coronation including the following after coronation feasts. Pope Pius Second described the Town Hall of Aachen in 1453 as “stateliest palace in all of Germany”.

Also don’t miss the wonderfull murals painted by Affred Rethel in Coronation Hall in the middle of the 19th century. Next to the Town Hall there are a few interesting buildings which were built in the 16-17 centuries. Today most of them host restaurants or souvenir shops. Also I personally was impressed by the fountains of the Aachen. Some of them are small so be be cautious when you will explore the city and don’t miss them.

Fountain in Aachen

Streets of Aachen

Aachen. Town Hall

Murals of Affred Rethel

Sentry of the city

Toledo

The city of Toledo - is a former capital of the Spain. It was founded in the pre-roman times of the Spanish history but during the Roman era Toledo hadn't played significant role. It was the ordinary city on the expanses of the Roman Empire.

Everything is changed for the city after the fall of the Western Roman Empire when in 534 it has been chosen by Goths as their capital. According to the evidences of the contemporaries of the city it quickly became one of the most developed cities in Europe with a big number of churches and palaces. But in 711 Toledo has been captured by the Moors which conquered almost all territories of the Spain.

View of Toledo. Photo provided by the Gaguilarq under CC BY 3.0 license

For survived Christian kingdoms at the north of the Spain Toledo always was the spiritual capital. They desperately tried to regain control over the city but only in 1085 their attempt was successful.

King Alphonse Sixth, who was commander of the troops, lifted his flag over the citadel of Toledo and after the three years he made the city his capital. As I already said Toledo was capital of Spain until 16th century when King Philip decided to move the capital to the Madrid.

Toledo became one of the richness towns of medieval Spain. It was the cultural, spiritual and scientific center of the country. Also it was adorned by the big number of magnificent palaces. Some historians say that King Philip left the city because it was to lavish for him. He had looked for the ascetic way of living and Toledo definitely was not a such city.

El Puente de Alcántara- Toledo. Photo provided by the Dan Vaquerizo Molina under CC BY 3.0 license

From the observation deck which is located on the highway to the Toledo you can notice that historical center of the city is small. The pass to the main gate of Toledo (The Gate of Sun) lies through the bridge of Alcantara. This ancient bridge has been built by the Romans and still in service. The bridge has two towers which were built later. The closest to the city tower was built in 13 century and another tower originated from the 18 century.

“The Gate of Sun” has been built in the 12 century by the Moors. But in the base there is Roman stonework. Nearby the gate there is castle of San-Servando which was erected by the King Alphonse Sixth to prevent possible attempts of the Moors to regain control over the city.

San Martin Bridge - Toledo. Photo provided by the Dan Vaquerizo Molina under CC BY 3.0 license

In Toledo there are a lot of churches. But the main spiritual building – is a famous Cathedral of Toledo. The Cathedral of Toledo was built over the Muslim church. In turn Moors church has been built over the old church of Goths. In 13 century the building was decayed and had stood in the poor condition. Also it was too small for the effuse city and could not hold all prayers.

In 1227 according to the order of the King Fernando the old building has been demolished and new construction began instead. The construction lasted 250 years and today Cathedral of Toledo is the one of most impressive buildings in the city.

Alcazar of Toledo. Photo provided by the José Luis Filpo Cabana under CC BY 3.0 license

After the Cathedral the most important monument in Toledo is an Alcazar which is deeply coherent with the history of the city. Built by the Romans Alcazar then was a Moorish fortress and in 1085 Alphonse Sixth chose it as his residence. Alcazar and Cathedral - are the main sights of the city. Next to them located most important buildings of Toledo. Surrounding quarters have the marks of the Moorish times. They could look plain outside but very lavish inside. Some houses even have gardens and medieval pools with fountains. I think you will have a lot of joy during your stroll on the streets of the city.

Toledo - Santiago del Arrabal. Photo provided by the EmDee under CC BY 3.0 license

Also Toledo is known as the city of El Greco. He was born on Crete, studied arts in Venice but got his fame in Toledo. You can visit a lot of places related with El Greco. For example, home where he lived and worked for a long period. Also in the city’s churches there are a lot of works of El Greco. If you don’t have enough time to explore them all don’t miss small San-Tome Church.

Also I advise you to visit the San-Martin Bridge from which you can make very nice photos of the city. Especially at night, when Toledo covered by millions of lights. So it’s better to stay in Toledo for a few days and explore the city without rush and bustle.

Mezquita Cristo de la Luz . Photo provided by the José Luis Filpo Cabana under CC BY 3.0 license

Rethymno

The city of Rethymno located on north shore of Crete. It’s one of the best preserved medieval cities in the Greece with well preserved architectural ensemble of the 15 century.

Rethymno does not have good beaches inside but the city is a popular resort because nearby there are a lot of great beaches with a big number of hotels. Public transport on the Crete is well developed and you can easily reach the city from your hotel by using the bus.

Despite the fact that most people think about Rethymno as about medieval city, it’s has own roots in dark era of the birth of the human civilization. You can make sure of it by visiting the local Archeological museum or by reading the Roman historians Claudius Ptolemy and Pliny. Also there is very interesting witnesses of the Claudia Eliana who wrote that in Rethymno was wonderful temple dedicated to the Artemis.

Photo port in Rethymno

Unfortunately we don’t have a lot of evidences about the Rethymno in the period of the Byzantine Empire and the Arabs.

In 961 the city was captured by the Nicephorus Phocas and after that Rethymno was a part of Byzantine Empire until the 1204 when Crusaders took control over the Crete. The era of Crusaders didn't lasted for a long period. They didn't leave any prominent signs of their presence on the island. Soon after, they sold the island to the Venetians and for Rethymno new era began – the era of Venetians.

Photo Old houses in the center

It was the most prominent era in the history of Rethymno. Most prominent monuments like Rethymno fortress and harbor were built in this period. Another prominent vestige of the Venetians is an Arkadi abbey which is located at the distance of the 10 km from the city.

After the fall of the Constantinople in 1453 Venetians have started wide fortification program on the Crete. Among the other projects they also began the project of building new walls around the Rethymno. This project has been finished in the 1570.

Photo view of Rethymno

May be it will be funny but just a year after, the Rethymno has been sacked after the dashing attack of the Turkish pirates. This induced the Venetians to build the fortress on the top of the Palaeokastro hill. The work under the fortress started in 1573 and was finished in 1590. But the territory of the new fortress was too small and could not include all houses in the city. Only administrative and military buildings were laid out inside the fortress. The rest of the buildings in Rethymno were left outside the fortress.

Photo garden in Rethymno

Fortress in Rethymno

Fortress of Rethymno doesn’t have military fame. In 1645 Turks have landed near the city of Chania and started conquest of the Crete. 29 September 1646 they have approached to the walls of Rethymno.

The head of the Venetian armed forces have decided that the defense will be meaningless and capitulated. There of, one of the most fortified fortresses of the 17th century has been given to the enemy without any resistance.

Today the walls and bastions of the citadel are in the good conditions. You can climb to it and take a walk over the wall’s perimeter. Also you can take in the military depots, Bishop's Palace and Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim.

Photo Fortress in Rethymno

Venetian port in Rethymno

Another significant Venetian landmark in the city – is an old port. Today port hosts a lot of fish restaurants where you can test a local sea food. The port of Rethymno is alo the heart of the old city. All paths start from this point and at the end they lead to the port.

Fountain Rimondi

This landmark located at the Platania Square on the road which connects the port with the city gate. The Fountain has been built in the 1626 and consists from the three reservoirs. If you drink water from this fountain together with your spouse you will never be parted.

Photo Fountain Rimondi

Loggia

In the Middle Ages this building served as the gathering place for the aristocracy. Here they discussed political and economical questions and of course settled their own affairs. Today in the Loggia located a nice shop of the copies of famous Greek sculptures.

Beaches of the Rethymno

Like others cities of the Crete, Rethymno doesn’t have beaches. But from the north of the city starts famous White Mountains Beach which stretches more than 10 kilometers.

Photo White Mountains Beach